The Ilocos Chronicles 2010: Entry #3

Adobong Sili.  Dinardaraan. Via Crucis. With a meal and a prayer—that was how my first day here ended.

To begin, a definition of terms is in order.

Adobong Sili is one of the Ilocano sidaen my brother, Jay and I crave for when we would visit Lolo.  Green silis that, strangely, are not maanghang are used along with sukang iloko and native bawang—two other things that I love about Ilocos, to prepare this dish.  Toyo is used sparingly perhaps so as not overpower the taste and color of the sili.

Dinardaraan, the Ilocano version of dinuguan is rather new to me.  I discovered it several years back when Uncle Vic took me and several other people to eat at a diner in San Nicholas.  I do not remember where that mini restaurant was exactly located but it was just along the highway between Laoag and the nearest neighboring town.  It appears that to prepare the dinardaraan, the pork is fried first before being mixed with the other ingredients.  I remember being amazed by its crispiness that was perfectly complemented the slight saltiness of cooked pig’s blood.

I enjoyed these two dishes at an “Ylocano Restaurant” called Saramsam.  It’s a quaint, charming place that I discovered by accident at the corner of Rizal Avenue and a minor street whose name I did not care to find out.  The price was rather expensive given that I am in Ilocos and Ilocano food is supposed to come from here and not transported from somewhere else.  But, I am tired from walking so eating here is worth it.

Via Crucis is, of course, the Stations of the Cross in Latin.

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Speaking of walking.  I walked around the center of Laoag yesterday.  Why?  Because I am in Laoag, that’s why.  It is perhaps one of the most pedestrian-friendly cities in the Philippines because it has sidewalks that can actually be walked upon.  Besides, my grandparents’ house is relatively near the city center.  I remember walking from the house to the cathedral for my Uncle Vic’s ordination close to three decades ago and also for the funeral mass of my Lolo.

I went out of the house a few minutes after four o’clock in the afternoon.  The world around me had turned bright orange.  I slept the first part of the day after spending some time chatting with two of my cousins here, Tina and Arnold.  The other one is Christian, their kuya, but he was in school or asleep, it depends on who you asked, when I arrived.

I visited Lola in her room just before lunch.  She’s very thin and appeared to be sleeping.   Later, just to let the heat of the day pass, I watched on my laptop the film “Stand by Me,” which I found in the film collection of my cousin, Tina.  I have seen the film in bits and pieces but not, it goes without saying, in its entirety.

I walked to the center of the city soon after.  I secured a bus ticket back to Manila, first.  To reserve a seat is the safest thing to do if one has an appointment in Manila a day after a holiday.  Partas would be too risky, if that is the case.  So, I headed to the Maria de Leon terminal but, surprise!, they were fully booked for Sunday night.  I went to Farinas, but with the way their buses look from the outside, they were not really an option.  I thought to myself, “RCJ Liner is better.”  They might not have the De Luxe buses of Partas and, I found out today, the Super De Luxe buses of Maria de Leon, but they were trustworthy too.   Well, at least the last time I rode them, they were.

I went to the RCJ Liner terminal after walking around the city center.  I passed by the capitol building and then made my way to the market and then back to the cathedral.  From the cathedral grounds, I took a picture of the sinking bell tower and the church’s facade.  After taking a picture of the underbelly of the bridge, I crossed the main street to the plaza in front of the city hall.  It was from there that I walked to the RCJ terminal. 

It was already six o’clock and I was tired and hungry.  McDonald’s was temptingly close but I have my convictions.  I decided to head for Lorreine’s Eatery where I had my breakfast that morning.  It was on my way there that I discovered Saramsam.